Creativity and contamination: CoSTUME NATIONAL keywords for 2017
Ennio Capasa, founder and creative director of Italian maison Costume National, has presented his collection for Fall/Winter 2016/2017 during the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
A line witha huge connection with music, as usual in the way of the Apulian designer, has walked the catwalk in Duomo square.
This new collection is particularly inspired by David Bowie and Freddie Mercury’s experimental rock and is called “Under pressure”, just like the famous song. Why this name? In Capasa’s opinion, creativity is the only good answer to the world we live in which is totally ‘under pressure’, obsessively focused on performance and efficiency.
So Capasa, driven by an unstoppable push to experimenting, has decided to state fashion’s freedom working on fusion through different styles.
Garments wisely mix traditional new wave mold of Costume National with elements from couture, uniform and combat wear, and gain a sort of ‘positive’ charm thanks to chromatic shades contrasting each other.
Prevalent colours are black, grey, blue navy and neon turquoise next to shiny and forest green and warmer shades as red and bordeaux.
The choice of fabrics is amazing and polished: they consist of faux fur, shiny and printed glitter velvet, flower print and solid crêpe de chine, silver laminated georgette and print pois.
Wool is coloured and comes up besides geometric jacquard lamé. In a wider framework we can also find file-coupé on nylon, flock print, embroidery on double georgette and decorations with a 3D effect.
As seen in the runway, jackets are squared with a deeper collar, slim and comfortable fit, while oversized coats have a fluid and deconstructing fit.
Trousers are all skinny, swinging from combat multi-pockets item with zips to black Japanese denim.
The other key player in collection is knitwear: chenille and jacquard technique reinterpret turtleneck sweater in a modern way.
Starting from these garments, the outfits created are deliberately provocative and unexpected: above all, our attention was catched by sartorial double cashmere blue suits or chenille shirts with combat trousers, or cadet jackets with 3D lace leather trousers.
Finally, customized shoes and accessories have made everything even more charming: backpacks in calfskin and suede, scarves in velvet and crêpe de chine embellished with crystals and micro chains, camperos boots in calfskin and suede with double zip details and crossed latch buckles.
Our exclusive interview to Ennio Capasa will tell you even more about the collection’s mood…take a look at the video!